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Post by mario428 on Jan 9, 2007 13:20:55 GMT -4
Mario - you mentioned that I should raise the front end of my bottom bar - if I do this I would have to lower my front bracket to achieve 0*. With the axle set at a 15" centerline my brackets are 7-5/8" from the floor. I was under the impression that the leading edge of the frame bracket would be best at 90* straight up and down - is this the case? . The squareness of the brackets is immaterial. What you need after you are all said and done (front ends and all) is to be able to get an IC say 40 inches out and 3-4 inches up from the ground. This would likely be as short and low as you would want to get. From there almost any other IC is reachable.
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Post by MercuryMan on Jan 9, 2007 18:07:42 GMT -4
I can't see that being to hard to accomplish when I build the new section next year. This half-assed 4 link design can't be any worse than stock leaf springs....Atleast I hope not....LOL
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Post by MercuryMan on Jan 9, 2007 23:13:17 GMT -4
As promised, I finished cutting the steel tonight, my cheapo Princess Auto chop saw took a beating but it lasted....Good thing it came with spare brushes....LOL.....It will puke before the one year warranty is up at this rate. ;D Nothing is welded yet, much grinding and beveling to do. My goal is to have this all welded to the truck by the end of this weekend....Better keep on truckin'
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Post by MercuryMan on Jan 13, 2007 21:19:29 GMT -4
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Post by mario428 on Jan 14, 2007 6:26:47 GMT -4
Shocks do not have to be straight up and down, a coilover will be quite happy at an angle.
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Post by MercuryMan on Jan 14, 2007 8:56:00 GMT -4
I was gonna ask that question too ....I saw a lot of street driven 4 links with the shocks angled, but every track only rig I could find on the net had the adjustable height shocks mounted vertical. My only concern with the angled shocks is the lower mounts - how is that going to work with the lower adjustable shock brackets? I'll be ordering my shocks and roll bar this week- probably from Jeg's (they have both kits for a reasonable price) so I need to figure out what to order. My box is 66-1/2" inside fenderlip to inside fenderlip. if I went with a 24" wide frame I'd have 21-1/4" of room in each wheel tub. The 30-13-15 slicks I'm looking at have a section width of 16" so that leaves me 2-5/8" of room on either side of the tire. I looked at Hoosier's and goodyear's too, I'd have room for 32-14-15's as well, the GY's are listed at a 17.1" section width. www.mandhtires.com/store.php?crn=71&rn=344&action=show_detailwww.mandhtires.com/store.php?crn=71&rn=346&action=show_detail
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Post by ShoeBoxRacer on Jan 21, 2007 12:34:20 GMT -4
STUART, CHECK OUT EBAY ITEM # 260077107909. IT MAY BE OF USE TO YOU,
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Post by MercuryMan on Jan 21, 2007 12:41:42 GMT -4
The price is right hey Bernie....LOL.....Funny you posted that now - I'm in the middle of welding my frame rails to the truck today as I type this - I just stopped for lunch. I should have some pic's posted later today. ;D I'm just waiting to here back from Baer's in Ontario, I had a couple of questions before I ordered my shocks and roll cage from them....They WILL be ordered early this week. $671+tax for the Strange shock kit and $266+tax for the 8pt rollbar kit - custom made to your measurements....Shipping is extra ofcourse. ....Starting to make progess again.
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Post by MercuryMan on Jan 21, 2007 18:47:43 GMT -4
Well, the frame rails are now part of the truck. All in all I think it went pretty good. Took some time to make sure everything was square and straight as best I could. I'll finish welding in the 4 link this week in the evenings. As you can see in the pic I need to put a small piece on the bottom of the frame brackets to beef it up....I have a plan in my mind for next winter - this is why I designed that area of the frame like I did. The frame is 24" wide.
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Post by ChipperChapman1090 on Jan 23, 2007 23:11:16 GMT -4
Just realized how much differenece there is between 1/4 ton and 1/2 ton, your rails are 24" wide, mine are 37" and i can still fit a 14x32 lol!
Chris
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