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Lexan
Feb 11, 2012 8:46:09 GMT -4
Post by mario428 on Feb 11, 2012 8:46:09 GMT -4
Dont have any closeup pics, can get some if you want. But I fitted my back window the way I wanted, a flapper wheel on a grinder does a great job of shaving edges to fit. Figured out how much black border I wanted and painted it. Set the window in place an drilled holes thru. Countersunk the holes in the window to suit the 8-32 flathead screws I used. Put in enough foam rubber spacer to make the window as flush as possible and used about 30 bolts to fasten it in. Use nylock nuts so you do not have to tighten it down hard, the lexan will crack. THanks to John Mac for volunteering to crawl around inside the car to hold all the nuts. ;D ;D My windsheild is 3/16, the back window is 1/8 with the braces you see.
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Lexan
Feb 11, 2012 8:53:59 GMT -4
Post by MercuryMan on Feb 11, 2012 8:53:59 GMT -4
Thanks Mario, this is all I need. It was pretty much what I expected to hear so that's cool. Where did you buy the foam seal? The inner part of my hatch is about a 3/4" lip. What material and size are the braces?
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Lexan
Feb 11, 2012 9:34:17 GMT -4
Post by Overtaker on Feb 11, 2012 9:34:17 GMT -4
Stu, my version is quite similar to Mario’s. I have lexan in side, quarter and rear hatch. Lexan is fine to use, I've had it in for several years ...10 or more. No issues with scratching or discoloration. Trick is to be careful cleaning it. Use a California duster for general maintenance and prior to every wash. When washing, use a good carwash/wax for lubricant. Wash windows first with clean mitt before washing anything other part of car. Dry with clean chamois.
The trick to installing is to make your template a little larger than the window opening..use your own discretion and some trial and error to get the result you want. What you want to accomplish is to have an insert that you have the ability to put a convex bow in the lexan. The bow will give stability to the lexan and you may not not have to use any supports ...I didn’t need any additional support. As Mario has said, paint the interior edge to your liking to hide the window frame and crap! Once fitted and sealed ..I used black foam weather stripping( of thickness and width you be the judge of). I used a bunch of #6 x 5/8 or 3/4 stainless metal screws..every 6" or so to fasten. Marios flathead bolts sound like a better approach. If you plan to reinstall moldings be careful not to use a screw/bolt too large as to interfere. Tighten them down only enough to put slight pressure on the lexan. Put your molding back on and ...voila! I've never had any issues at all with this set up. Install side and quarters the same way and you will end up with near to factory bow in the windows and not that flat, vibrating problem. I think I only used 1/8" run-of-the mill lexan if I recall, but 3/16 and Marguard lexan would make for a nice job.
Side note: as far as your oiling system I highly recommend HV pump, also, run an external 3/8" oil line from front outlet in block just above factory fuel pump location on timing chain cover and back to the oil pressure inlet and cobble for your needs. If funds allow, have right side lifter bores bushed with I believe .040 oiling passages drilled ( Armstrong’s did mine). Stock 460 is know for oiling issue and in a drag car it should be addressed.
My 2 cents! LOL Bob
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Lexan
Feb 11, 2012 9:52:32 GMT -4
Post by MercuryMan on Feb 11, 2012 9:52:32 GMT -4
Thanks for the tip Bob, I hadn't heard the lifter bore shim trick before. I wasn't planning on putting any trim on the window, just looking to do a simle, clean installation. ;D The last item on my to do list is to build the engine. I learned a lot building my old Merc from the ground, their is an easy and hard way to do stuff if you rush or don't rush....LOL....I'm eyeballing the steering shaft at this point, going to be a tricky fit through the super comps.
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Lexan
Feb 11, 2012 11:09:23 GMT -4
Post by Overtaker on Feb 11, 2012 11:09:23 GMT -4
Stu, sorry the lifter bores should be "bushed", not shimmed ...big difference! LOL Bob
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Lexan
Feb 11, 2012 12:38:38 GMT -4
Post by MercuryMan on Feb 11, 2012 12:38:38 GMT -4
Gothca' Bob, I will admit you had me stumped with the shims....LOL
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Lexan
Feb 11, 2012 14:02:17 GMT -4
Post by ShoeBoxRacer on Feb 11, 2012 14:02:17 GMT -4
Stu, Any building supply can provide you with foam rolls in various thickness & widths to cushion your Lexan & allow it to be flush mounted to the frame. It's traditionally used as draft-stops in home construction. The only down size is that it comes in any colour you want....as long as you want dull grey, so you'll have to paint a black surround on the Lexan to hide it. As Mario indicated, you can easily flush mount the panel with a backer made of this stuff in the correct dimension, & it acts as a good shock absorber to prevent cracking.
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Lexan
Feb 11, 2012 14:03:20 GMT -4
Post by ShoeBoxRacer on Feb 11, 2012 14:03:20 GMT -4
By the way, if that rig is going to crack the tens, I hope that you're going to give the Pro-Tree series a try!!!!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Lexan
Feb 11, 2012 14:25:12 GMT -4
Post by MercuryMan on Feb 11, 2012 14:25:12 GMT -4
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Lexan
Apr 30, 2012 22:47:35 GMT -4
Post by MercuryMan on Apr 30, 2012 22:47:35 GMT -4
Leave it to me to drag up an old thread ;D....But I started fitting the window tonight, 1/8" lexan is what I bought. I will need a brace or 2 in the middle of the window for support. What should I buy? 1/2 or 3/8" aluminum or steel pipe/tubing/round bar? I need the braces in place to finish fitting the lexan to the gap. I'm going flush mount (as best as I can make it flush...LOL) as the fiberglass hatch has no moulding or clips for it. I want to finish the fitting partof the job tomorrow night so I can paint the hatch and keeping on trucking...LOL....Only a month left, it's going to be down to the wire wether I'm ready for the May weekend at Greenfield or not. ...Just waiting on my rod's to arrive so I can get at the engine assembly.
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