Post by MercuryMan on Jan 23, 2009 19:35:57 GMT -4
I'm getting ready to redo the drivetrain in my 63 Mercury Meteor 2dr post this winter. Here's the donor: 1994 GT, smashed this past summer by my best friend. Everyone is ok now...luckily...I bought it from the salvage yard because I knew that pretty much everything was new under the hood and I installed a lot of it...The car had 105,000KM on it.
The plan is to use his top end on my 1994 GT bottom end (my current engine came from a 94 GT as well, dyno'd at 208RWHP in almost stock trim)
94 GT shortblock (hypers) re-ringed and new bearings
ARP rod bolts, main studs and head bolts
FRPP X302 aluminum heads (1.94/1.54)
B303 cam, 1.7 Crane rr's
Weiand stealth intake
Mallory Hyfire ign, FRPP 9mm wires
Aeromotive A1000 pump and 2000 boost ref regulator (already had them NIB for another project I'm building)
Powerdyne blower 6psi - might upgrade to 9psi.
Hooker super-comp ceramic coated longtube headers, 2.5" duals with MAC mufflers, H-pipe
Holley 750DP, 4 corner idle with the hanger 18 mods.
Extreme Velocity carb hat
I was figuring it would be around 425-450HP at the crank?
I also need to upgrade the fuel lines on my car and ad a return line to the tank - what size should I run?. hould I go with a smaller carb or will the 750 work with the right tune? also putting the T5 5spd in my car to replace the C4, it had a brand new Ford Racing HD clutch installed last year. I sold all the EFI gear from the car in peices on Kijiji and I sold what was left of the carcus for $500 as well. 
....I know thar some of peanut gallery is going to start shitting on the Powerdyne blower but for a car that see's maybe 1000KM per year it should last a long time....I basically got all this stuff for free as I've made my money back and then some.
The 5L is out, it's apart and the headgaskets don't really show that bad....I guess the pressure and heat from the steam lifted the heads enough to push the coolant into the cylinders. There is some minor rust at the top of 2 or 3 cylinders though so it's coming in somewhere.....Nothing a hone wouldn't fix. I might have the block magged to be sure.
I had a closer lookat the C4 next to the T5....Piece of cake as long as the headers clear the newer style T5 bellhousing. The trans mount is about 3" more to the rear than the C4 and it's thingyed a little bit....Minor fabrication to make it fit the stock crossmember I think. The driveshaft slides right in and might need to be shortened a little if I don't have a new one made from scratch. The shifter will come up through the hole in floor where it is now for the Hurst Indy shifter I have in the car. I'll mod the indy shifter to fit the T5 and have it re-chromed if needed (I might need to heat and bend it to fit the bench seat). The speedo cable goes in at the exact same spot on both transmissions. The most tedious part will be the peddles and cable for the clutch - I still don't think that will be all that hard with my "unique" fabrication skills...LOL...I will have it sitting in the car this weekend for a test fit.....The engine block looks good, lots of cross-hatch left in it so a simple mag for cracks and hone job should do the trick.
The plan is to use his top end on my 1994 GT bottom end (my current engine came from a 94 GT as well, dyno'd at 208RWHP in almost stock trim)
94 GT shortblock (hypers) re-ringed and new bearings
ARP rod bolts, main studs and head bolts
FRPP X302 aluminum heads (1.94/1.54)
B303 cam, 1.7 Crane rr's
Weiand stealth intake
Mallory Hyfire ign, FRPP 9mm wires
Aeromotive A1000 pump and 2000 boost ref regulator (already had them NIB for another project I'm building)
Powerdyne blower 6psi - might upgrade to 9psi.
Hooker super-comp ceramic coated longtube headers, 2.5" duals with MAC mufflers, H-pipe
Holley 750DP, 4 corner idle with the hanger 18 mods.
Extreme Velocity carb hat
I was figuring it would be around 425-450HP at the crank?
I also need to upgrade the fuel lines on my car and ad a return line to the tank - what size should I run?. hould I go with a smaller carb or will the 750 work with the right tune? also putting the T5 5spd in my car to replace the C4, it had a brand new Ford Racing HD clutch installed last year. I sold all the EFI gear from the car in peices on Kijiji and I sold what was left of the carcus for $500 as well. 
....I know thar some of peanut gallery is going to start shitting on the Powerdyne blower but for a car that see's maybe 1000KM per year it should last a long time....I basically got all this stuff for free as I've made my money back and then some.The 5L is out, it's apart and the headgaskets don't really show that bad....I guess the pressure and heat from the steam lifted the heads enough to push the coolant into the cylinders. There is some minor rust at the top of 2 or 3 cylinders though so it's coming in somewhere.....Nothing a hone wouldn't fix. I might have the block magged to be sure.
I had a closer lookat the C4 next to the T5....Piece of cake as long as the headers clear the newer style T5 bellhousing. The trans mount is about 3" more to the rear than the C4 and it's thingyed a little bit....Minor fabrication to make it fit the stock crossmember I think. The driveshaft slides right in and might need to be shortened a little if I don't have a new one made from scratch. The shifter will come up through the hole in floor where it is now for the Hurst Indy shifter I have in the car. I'll mod the indy shifter to fit the T5 and have it re-chromed if needed (I might need to heat and bend it to fit the bench seat). The speedo cable goes in at the exact same spot on both transmissions. The most tedious part will be the peddles and cable for the clutch - I still don't think that will be all that hard with my "unique" fabrication skills...LOL...I will have it sitting in the car this weekend for a test fit.....The engine block looks good, lots of cross-hatch left in it so a simple mag for cracks and hone job should do the trick.
