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Post by MercuryMan on Oct 13, 2006 20:35:45 GMT -4
Guys, I really appreciate all the help/suggestions I'm getting here. ;)My budget is low so I have to cheat were I can for now, I can alway's change things over time to make the truck better and faster. Having said that, spending $200-$300 to replace stock rusty rear suspension components doesn't make sense to me. I spent some time on the net tonight looking at 4 links, ladder bars and rear coil overs. Then I went out to the shop for an hour by myself, put on my coveralls and layed under the truck for another hour just looking at the rear suspension options....I came to the conclusion that I might as well dump the leafs now for something else as it will be money better well spent. I still have to build a tranny, buy a converter, buy some of the fuel system, swap in a manual steering box, buy a roll bar and rebuild the brakes. Here's the biggest issue I see with moving the engine back - the front suspension clearing the oil pan. To get the engine in the truck as low as possible I used a double hump Crown Vic oil pan. With the engine sitting in it's current spot it clears the rear I- beam ok. To go more to the rear I would need a rear sump pan and that would make the engine sit higher to clear the oil pan/crossmember as the rear sump pans are taller. Moving the engine back can wait until next winter, then I can change the front suspension at the same time and it will all flow together as one big project. Right now the stock driveshaft length works out perfect. From my math, the turbo's, rad, converter and carb will add about 100-200lbs more to the front end depending on what I use. Sorry for the long post....LOL
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Post by scottiebarebum on Oct 13, 2006 22:25:02 GMT -4
you still should go with some sort of solid mounts,whether its a motor plate,or solid mounts.u will need them.then use a poly-urathane mount for the tranny.just because u go solid on the motor,doesnt mean u need solid for the tranny.but make sure its a good mount.
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Post by Fordrelic on Oct 13, 2006 23:33:23 GMT -4
Stu, I know that your all gun ho on doing this Ranger but with the mods and extras that you have to do wouldn't it be the same if not less $$ and work to back half the t-bird. You should be able to back half for less than $1000.00 including tubing. When the Ranger is all said and done you will be into to it more than double that. Isn't the T-bird already, except for the rear frame. From looking at the previous pic you had posted you pretty much had it under control, including the alum. interior. Now with the Ranger you will have to start all over again. Don't want to discorage you but I think you would be better off puttin your time & money in to the T-bird (or does Mario have you scared LOL). Once you start gutting the Ranger you will understand what I mean. All the best in which ever venture you decide to go with.
Andrea
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Post by 78SS on Oct 13, 2006 23:34:08 GMT -4
Personally - I think you should plan the truck out on paper and start buying/fabricating everything you will need.
Throwing parts together that you can scrounge will get you by on a lower power vehicle, but getting down the 1320 with complete confidence in yours and everyone elses safety should be paramount.
If I were you - I would ensure that the frame was mint (looking a bit soft) and that all the body attachment points were perfect. This will take some time, but relieve you of launch gremlins later on.
For that rear suspension - I'd be considering a ladder bar/coilover setup.. Gives you adjustment and has the fewest down sides.
That turbo setup is going to push that truck to the brink - just trying to help you make sure it's not over it..
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Post by MercuryMan on Oct 14, 2006 6:43:14 GMT -4
The turbo setup looks more killer than it really is. With an adjustable waste gate I can set the boost level where I want to be for HP.
The t-bird was toast, it needed a manual rack, windshield, all new brakes including calipers and etc, a steering column and rust repair in the rear among other things. The ranger is the project and that's the rig I'll be hauling to Greenfield. The frame is good, plenty solid. I'm going to make a couple of CM's myself and all the other hangers/mounts will have the rivets replaced with bolts. I would have had to build the back 1/2 in the t-bird and then I'd still need to buy a rear suspension on top of that same as the truck.
The rollbar should stiffen the chassis quite a bit on it's own I'm thinking. Let's not forget that I work on big rigs for a living and safety is paramount with those 100,000lb beasts - especially when I'm looking one over. I'm doing lots of research before I spend money on parts.
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Post by 78SS on Oct 14, 2006 9:08:41 GMT -4
The turbo setup looks more killer than it really is. With an adjustable waste gate I can set the boost level where I want to be for HP. The t-bird was toast, it needed a manual rack, windshield, all new brakes including calipers and etc, a steering column and rust repair in the rear among other things. The ranger is the project and that's the rig I'll be hauling to Greenfield. The frame is good, plenty solid. I'm going to make a couple of CM's myself and all the other hangers/mounts will have the rivets replaced with bolts. I would have had to build the back 1/2 in the t-bird and then I'd still need to buy a rear suspension on top of that same as the truck. The rollbar should stiffen the chassis quite a bit on it's own I'm thinking. Let's not forget that I work on big rigs for a living and safety is paramount with those 100,000lb beasts - especially when I'm looking one over. I'm doing lots of research before I spend money on parts. I have a feeling that limiting the power from those trubo's is not your plan!! Otherwise - you'd run N/A and be done with it!! LOL My car might get 370HP to the wheels - might - and I spent the money where it mattered - the rear and suspension. I already had a 4 link from the factory, I just added adjustable uppers and solid lowers. All in I probably spent near $2600 on the rear alone. Sounds a bit ridiculus, but I have had ZERO problems for the past 2 years and hit a best 60' of 1.61.. The suspension you have pictured will do nothing but cost you money if you make any power.. Wheel hop can do disasterous things to many components!! Get a ladder bar setup and be done with it.. I work on medical equipment - so I hear you on safety.. I just don't think you've built/driven anything as wild as you are going to end up with..
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Post by MercuryMan on Oct 14, 2006 9:54:38 GMT -4
Baby steps....remember that.... ;D....We'll keep cranking it up as the truck shows it can handle it and we can figure out the tuning. I hear ya on the rear suspension - totally out to lunch for the TT-357W. The more I look at them the ladder bars are looking better. They wouldn't be expensive to install or hard to install. I was looking at the S&W kits and Comp Eng. Got any others in mind? This would be nice: www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73167
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Post by 78SS on Oct 14, 2006 11:14:05 GMT -4
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Post by MercuryMan on Oct 14, 2006 12:19:01 GMT -4
I wouldn't live to see xmas if I asked the wife for that...LOL ;D...The ladder bar bits and pieces are not that bad on the scummit website.
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Post by 78SS on Oct 14, 2006 18:54:05 GMT -4
I wouldn't live to see xmas if I asked the wife for that...LOL ;D...The ladder bar bits and pieces are not that bad on the scummit website. I hear that!! I don't even ask for parts anymore for fear of having them airmailed to me!! LOL I'm going to be building a more stout motor for next year - she told me I wasn't allowed to run S/PRO!! LOL No worries there!! Yeah - picking up the pieces could definately save you a few $$$ - especially if you intend to fab up the CM's and shock mounts.. If I were you, I'd definately clean up the frame and box what can be - that first pass will be enlightening!!
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