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Post by MercuryMan on Oct 1, 2005 17:50:12 GMT -4
I ot the rear package tray aluminum and rear firewall about 90% done today. I need some help to drill the rear holes near the glass from the trunk side up and use small machine screws/nuts to fasten it down. Then I'm going to paint the top of it and the dash flat black to stop the sunlight reflection off the aluminum. I did a test fit of the GM 6.5 turbo on each side of the engine bay today and I think all I will have to do is rotate the compressor housings and cartridge sections to allow for hood clearance and oil supply. I've got 2 rear kick panels and a trunk lid panel left to make too. Then I gotta find a steering column and mount the seat. ;D
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Post by MercuryMan on Feb 8, 2006 21:36:33 GMT -4
Things are going slow on the car itself but I should start the 351W (357cid) assembly this weekend. I have the last few parts on order like my ARP oil pump shaft fromRoad Rage, my oil pump from Crappy Tire and some Erson hardened pushrods I bought on ebay tonight.... I'm gonna do up my 1970 DOOE 351W heads (9.3:1) Here's all the parts that will be my 357.
;D HP guess-timations?
351W to be bored .030" over (357-CID) re-conditioned stock rods with ARP Waveloc HP bolts Speed-Pro .030" forged pistons, 9.30:1 compression ratio Home ported DOOE casting 1970 351W heads stock 1.84/1.54 valves with Crane springs to suit the 280H cam Erson anti-pump up lifters Erson hardened pushrods Weiand Stealth high rise dual plane intake Holley 750cfm dual feed vacuum secondary carb AED carb rebuild kit Stock Duraspark-II dizzy, Accel cap/rotor kit Crane HI-6S ignition Holley lasershot pro-strip coil Comp Cams 280H grind flat tappet camshaft (.512" lift, 230 duration) Edelbrock dual idler gear drive timing set Longtube headers, 3" collectors and 1-5/8" primaries 9mm FRPP plug wires
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Post by ChipperChapman1090 on Feb 8, 2006 21:58:22 GMT -4
You're comin right along there
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Post by MercuryMan on Feb 8, 2006 22:08:12 GMT -4
I'm trying...LOL
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Post by MercuryMan on Mar 26, 2006 10:50:38 GMT -4
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Post by 78SS on Mar 26, 2006 16:49:51 GMT -4
It's looking good Stuart..
Is there any particular reason that the piston numbering system you seem to have didn't work out? Or did you get it bored to the pistons and those are old marks?
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Post by MercuryMan on Apr 2, 2006 20:03:41 GMT -4
"don't work out?"....This ain't no chevy ;D....1-4 on the pass side and 5-8 on the drivers side for a SBF from front to rear. I got these pistons cheap because they were stored in a car in a box after they were mounted and the box got wet. The crowns had slight oxidization but it was nothing a little scotch brite and steel wool couldn't fix. The skirts and lands were ok, not a mark on them. They are brand new forged Sealed Power pistons, I paid $130 for them, rings, a spare set of rods and a complete overhaul gasket set from a guy in Yarmouth. A very good deal according to the machinist.
The machinist did the black marker thing according to the stampings on the rods/caps. I had them put on a good set of rods I had with some ARP bolts.
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Post by SS10 on Apr 2, 2006 21:01:56 GMT -4
Ya got to remember 88SS the dis is in the front .... easier to reach for those last minute tune ups.... also 12345678 is alot easier than 13572468... hehehe ;D ;D
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8rice
Full Member
Posts: 10
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Post by 8rice on Apr 2, 2006 21:17:28 GMT -4
Ya got to remember 88SS the dis is in the front .... easier to reach for those last minute tune ups.... also 12345678 is alot easier than 13572468... hehehe ;D ;D hey SS guys the positioning of the distributer can also be used to predict the outcome of a race FORD IN FRONT
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Post by SS10 on Apr 2, 2006 21:36:40 GMT -4
And from yet another point of view..... it's just BACKWARDS
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